Getting back into it

Back in action and it feels great!

My last project, a peplum top, is dated August 2012. Wow... Actually, I am shocked!  I thought it was about a year, but this is more than a year and a half for a completed project... and it is embarrassing.
I didn't completely abandon my workshop- a few things were fixed and re-vamped, but nothing worth writing home about. There has been a lot of changes on the job scene, my new business took a lot of energy, plus acute internet addiction does not leave much space for the real creation - this is a new danger a lot of us facing, but to actually realize how badly you might be affected is scary. (Read more here, if you think you might be too digitally distracted) The addiction is as strong as nicotine or drugs and a lot of changes has been made to claim my life back. Including getting back to my workshop.

It started with a little repair job. Remember The Perfect Pants? They were really perfect fit, until I had a terrible incident with my back and ended up loosing too much weight, so they were falling off me. But I loved them too much to let go ( or so I thought), so I reduced them a bit in the waist and hips and they were back in action.... until I recovered to my normal size.  Here is the moral of the story- never judge your size straight after illness. Buy something in a smaller size you are for the recovery period- you will regret altering your perfect garment, and there is no way back.

Three times the Perfect Pants were in the "charity" pile and three times I pulled them back out, I just couldn't do it. Yesterday, I looked at them again and tried them on, and eurica! I thought of the way, which was so much easier than any other solution, and so obvious, but it just didn't occur to me. The waistband is sewn on so low, that when I took it off, the pants' legs fit quite well, so ALL I had to do is to construct a new waistband, the back part to be exact. The problem was that after 2 previous alteration the top of the back leg pieces were much lower than than in the front, so the waistband piece looks more like a yoke, and not  a fancy one. But you know what? I can wear them again and this is what matters.

Then it made me think. I am on the ball already, why not use the energy and the inspiration to make another pair of Perfect Pants? Plus a little obsessive dream of owning a pair of red trousers, and out went the fabric ( a bi-stretch gabardine I used on back to the Seventies coat) and the Perfect Pants pattern was in action once again.

Alterations- I had to take in 1.5 cm at the centre back seam to allow for my sway back and completely reconstruct the waist band to allow for the change, but apart from that, so far so good.

Tutorials: Obviously after 1.5 years a lot of techniques are forgotten, and I am go delighted to shortlist the tutorials that are helping me on the way:

#1 An Easy Flat Fly Front Zipper from Sandra Betzina

I think my fly has never looked better. The fabric I am using is not very think and any thickness will make it bulge, so I didn't go by my own tutorial and  this method turned out perfect! And took me probably 3-4 minutes, with the best looking fly curve to date!

Watch and bookmark it here: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3831/video-an-easy-flat-fly-front-zipper

#2 A waistband tutorial

From Thread Theory- a nice tutorial also covering belt loops: http://threadtheoryblog.wordpress.com/2013/08/24/day-7-the-waistband-and-belt-loops-jedediah-shorts-sew-along/

So I am off to finish the work and hopefully the finished project will be coming up shortly! 

Exciting!!!!

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All images and copied text must have a link back or reference to Sewing -and Style Den

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Zip it up (Fly Zipper Insertion)

Inserting a zipper into trousers is not at all as scary as it may seem. Here are step by step guide of the method I used in my Shorts?Shorts! project

Step 1 — Interface

Assuming you have your centre seam sewn together to the point of fly opening, Interface the edges of the centre front seam, it will stabilize the zipper and make the fly look very sleek.



Step 2 — Sewing left side


1. Check that the length of your zipper corresponds with the length of the opening. If the zipper is too long, crop it as needed and secure the end with a few stitches across the teeth, to keep them together.

2. Fold the left allowance under about 5mm before the centre front line. Pin and press. Baste the left side of the zipper under the fold, with the zipper teeth showing.

3. Prepare a left flap by cutting a strip about 5 cm wide and as long as the zipper. Fold it wrong sides in and sew/overlock the edges (long side and one short end)

4. Place the flap under the basted zipper side, folded side about 1.5cm beyond the zipper teech. Using the special zipper sewing foot, stitch through all layers.

Step 3 — Sewing right side- part 1

Fold the right side of the front opening back and press along the centre fold line. close the zipper, place the right side of the trousers over the zipper to determine where the zipper should be attatched to the right side allowance, mark the placing. Pin the right side of the zipper to the right side allownace, without catching the main fabric. Baste it, try the trousers on and make sure it all lays nicely and doesn't bulk anywhere. when happy, sew the right zipper side to the allowance.

Step 4 — Sewing right side- part 2

Prepare the right side flap. (I like to give it a rounded shape, just like the top stitching will be.) This flap will support all the layers you have under the main fabric and make the zipper side look more crisp too.

With the rounded bit at the bottom of the zipper, place the right flap OVER the right allowance, hiding all the layers inside the flap. Using the special zipper foot, sew through all layers of allowance close to zipper teeth.

Step 6 — Stitch the fly

You can use a fly template (taken from any other trousers) if you are not comfortable drawing it yourself. I draw it by hand, using a ruler and rounding it at the bottom. Using your usual presser foot, place a row of neat even stitching over the line, making sure it doesn't catch the left flap underneath ( it must be attatched only at the bottom.) Make sure you backstitch at the centre seam at the bottom to strengthen the fly.

Step 7 — Finish the bottom edge

Sew the short edges of the flaps,allowaces together at an angle, just to secure them in place.


Step 8 — Conclusion

There are so many ways to insert a fly zipper, and mine is just one of them. I am happy enough with the look of my fly, it doesn't bulk, and the zipper is hidden nicely, yet it looks very neat when open too. Hope you find my method helpful, but do feel free to improve or alter it as you sew. Best of Luck!




©2012 copyright Sewing And Style.
All rights reserved.
All images and copied text must have a link back or reference to Sewing and Style Den

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Bias Tape and Mitered Corners- Tutorial

This technique is one of the basic how-tos, when it comes to finishing raw edges with a bias tape. It can be used on huge variety of projects- from clothing to household items.

A quick definition: Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias (UK cross-grain). The strip's fibers, being at 45 degrees to the length of the strip, makes it stretchier as well as more fluid and more drapeable compared to a strip that is cut on the grain. 

Before applying the bias, it is a good practise to prep it by stretching it under the steam (using your iron). It is trickier when the bias tape is pre-made (commercial) as you might have to fold and press it back to shape. In case of a pre-made tape, try pulling it lengthwise to stretch. The prepped bias will be narrower than unprepped version, but it will be ready to apply to the garment without the risk of it pulling the fabric or distorting the shape later on. It is absolutely vital to prep the bias for finishing curved edges, like armholes and necklines. 

 However in this tutorial we will be only looking at finishing the edges with 90 degrees corners, to easily achieve a neat mitered corner look. 

Step 1

Unfold you bias tape completely Pre-made bias tape will have one side narrower than the other. Unfold the tape and check which side is narrower. Align the right side of the tape facing the right side of the garment, narrow end of the bias tape to the seam allowance. Fold the short end of your tape down at a 90 degree angle to meet the raw edges and start sewing along the crease, do not forget to backstitch a little. 

Step 2

Sew all the way to the corner, stopping about a seam allowance width before the edge. Backstitch. 

Take your garment out from under your presser foot, fold your bias tape up and to the right forming a 90 degree angle. Press neatly with your fingers 

Align the bias tape onto the left along the raw edge and pin. Start sewing , leaving a seam allowance width from the edge, backstitch. Sew along the whole length of the tape required for your project. 

 

Step 3

Fold the bias tape over the seam allowance, make sure that folded tape is wide on the inside. Pin inside the seam and check on the inside, that the pin caught the edge of the bias tape. That is precisely why having one side wider is important. Tuck the corners in creating a lovely neat milted. Pin frequently. 

Step 4

Topstitch in a seam ditch, but always make sure the tape on the inside is overlapping the seam! That is why careful pinning is so important. Backstitch. P.S.: Some seamstresses like pinning along the bias tape, but with the satin tape, I found the pins leave the hole marks, so try to pin into the seam ditch, rather than the tape itself.

This technique is super easy to apply, even for beginners, just take your time and pin, pin, pin!

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Jazzed up T-shirt: sleeve alteration tutorial

Remember on my 12 in 2012 list, I wanted to learn sleeve design and alteration techniques? Well here is a very easy, beginner level, tutorial on adding a bit of jazz to those boring t-shirts.

The sleeve style for this tutorial is one of my favourite ones- rushed up around the sleeve cap.
It is perfect for a pear shaped girl like me to balance the curvy bottoms. they look so flattering and fun. I loved them on this dress in last October's Patrones:

Patrones 308, dress 8

The body-hugging style of the dress wouldn't be my first choice, so I  wanted to get myself a few tops with similar sleeves. And during a weekly shopping section I looked around the clothing department in Dunnes and noticed the multitude of cheap colourful tops they sell. The original styles are quite boring, but for the price it is easy to jazz them up a bit! So I got two!

You will need:  

• 2  same kind t-shirts or tops- one in your size, one in the largest available- you will use it to cut your new sleeves
• matching threads
• seam ripper or scissors
• sewing machine and/or overlock
• tailor's chalk

Step 1 — Old Sleeves Off

Using small scissors or a seam ripper, carefully break the armhole seam threads and remove the old sleeve

Step 2 — Design New Sleeves

Now we will design a new sleeve. I used a sleeve pattern from my last project, but really any pattern of a basic simple one-piece sleeve will do. (Mine has the allowances already added, check with the pattern company if you need to add allowance to it yourself.)

Take the second top you got and place the sleeve pattern on it, so that the bottom finished hem of the top becomes the hem of your sleeves ( you can cut your top along side seams and trace each sleeve individually, but I just aligned the bottom hem of my top and traced on a double fabric, so both of my sleeves are identical when cut.

Now we need to add the height to the sleeve cap in order to use that excess fabric to form rushes later. I added 15cm, but it is entirely up to you. Trace the sleeve along the pattern on the side seams and on the start of the sleeve caps up about 2-3 inches , then draw a new cap as high as you with- the higher the cap- the more frequent or deeper folds can be formed later on. Mark the very centre top of the sleeve and mark the point where your drawing leaves the pattern line.

Step 3 — Fold away

This is a step where you can go wild if you wish, you can do whatever you want here. The basic version: on the cap sleeve form equal size folds symmetrically staring from the top mark to the point where you started drawing the extended cap. Make sure the cap matches the pattern piece -it should fit into the armhole at the end.

Step 4 — Secure The Folds

Using the longest straight stitch on your sewing machine staystitch the folds, stitching slowly over the pins. The pins much be placed strictly across your stitch line so they do not break the machine needle

Step 5 — Attach the Sleeve to the Armhole

Sew the side seam of the sleeve. (If you are not comfortable sewing the sleeve into a hole, you can undo your top's side seams a little and sew in your sleeve flat. Later you can fold the sleeve right side in and sew the sleeve's and top's side seam at the same time.) 

Pin the sleeve to the armhole aligning the top centre mark to the top's shoulder seam, make sure the sleeve cap fits easily into the armhole and there is no excess fabric that will get caught up and pluck in your armhole seam. Pin frequently and check that everything fits together before stitching. 

Beware: Basting is very important in these last two steps, always baste everything first before stitching- it can save you hours of painful seam ripping! When working with jersey on your sewing machine you should use a narrow zigzag seam. Look for a kind of crooked zig-zag seam if you have one on your machine- it works better than a normal zigzag and very flexible to work with knits. Always experiment on some fabric scraps with a new stitch to get the best width/length that will work best on that fabric.

Step 6 — Finishing Touches

Check the right side of the top- you should have an evenly rushed sleeved and no plucking on either side of the armhole seam. Cut your seam allowance to 1cm. Using your overlock or a zig-zag stitch on the sewing machine finish the raw edges on the armhole and sleeve side seam.



Download a full tutorial on pdf ( burdastyle.com)

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To Line or Not to Line- part 2

I have been exploring, discussing and researching it a lot lately and I think the findings are worth posting about. If you remember, my dilemma was to line a dress or to wear a slip. Slips sounded promising, and most of all easy! Get a couple ( black and nude) and the need for lining your garments is abolished. Or so I thought. However, after raising the big question in my last post and on some sewing forums, I definitely had a change of heart about linings, and I undoubtedly learned a lot about my options when it came to linings too. Yey!

To start with, I have had a major issue with some linings not behaving well when being stitched up with my sewing machine- the seams looked almost ripped by the needle, and that really was very discouraging.

Maybe even that is why I developed a very unpleasant relationships with the idea of lining in the first place. I just did not work out as perfectly as I hoped!

And here is number one tip I have just learnt from a few professional dressmakers to avoid my seam disaster. They all advised that if dealing with any fabric that consists of a blend of fibers  to lay and cut the pattern pieces across the grainline!  This way the seams will never fall apart, they said! What a tip! Priceless!

I have also found some fabrics, I have never even heard of, that is commonly used as a lining material:

• Cupro - The European cousin of tencel , Cupro is also somewhat similar to rayon in that it is reprocessed cellulose. Cupro fabric breathes like cotton, drapes beautifully, and feels like silk on your skin. Its slinky, curve-hugging drape makes it great for elegant dresses and blouses.

• Silk Pongee ( Habutae) -A soft, thin, plain-weave fabric of light to medium weight with both crossribbing and small slubs, generally made from silk, but also from rayon or polyester. 

I did know the habutae from before, it is only when somebody swore by pongee silk as an amazing lining i went online and discovered that habotae is just another name for the same type of silk! What a relief! Habotae silk is so much easier to find than some thing called pongee. Especially in width and yardage suitable for dressmaking. Usually pongee available in form of scarfs (for hand painting).

And Cupro was highly recommended by the professionals, it feels like silk, but has all attributes of viscose, so it is great in wear: breathable, doesn't collect the dampness and drapes amasingly. I may just be ordering lots of it now.

100% viscose lining was highly recommended too. And any other 100% same fiber lining fabrics. And now we know what to do with blends too.

The bottom line- To Line, To Line, To LINE!!!! Fully or partially is entirely up to the style and personal preference. I will anyway, just the smart way.

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Pleat Me To The Moon ( Perfect Pleats tutorial)

This is a step by step photo tutorial on how to make pleats- easy way!

I have been inspired my Burdastyle member Julia Bobbin's Tessutti Dress and have been since quite obsessed with an idea of adding pleats to my old pal- Houndtooth Cocktail dress. (Check it out in my Burdastyle studio). So here is that little dream accomplished together with a detailed description.

Step 1: Width and lots of PINS!

First, you need to determine what width and style your pleated part must be. As in my case it was an extention to the hem of the dress, I just wanted to have my pleats around 2.5 inches long. The distinct print dictated the width. You can go for a harmonica style pleats or have outer and inner sides of the pleat different width. In my case I needed to keep the pattern flowing from the dress down, so the outer side of the pleat is wider. Before you commence actual pleating, make sure you have done your hemming and taken care of the raw fabric edges ( mine frays like crazy) Pin your desired pleats along the fold, a few times if necessary . There is never too little pinning in this step! Now press over the pleats with steam ( fabric allowing), I use silk organza to prevent my fabric from burning/shining from over pressing. Luckily this particular wool blend is very iron-friendly!

Step 2: Topstitch Pleats

Here is the main trick- and it is simple. All you have to do is topstitch the inner fold of the pleat on the reverse side. I stitch towards the hem and just before the edge backstitch good bit, to prevent threads sticking out at the hem after a while. Press again.

Step 3: If Your Pleated Piece is shorter than you need

As I was adding a pleated piece to the hem, it took a very very VERY long stripe. And as the dress has been already made, there was no patterns/instructions handy to calculate exactly how wide the piece should be. And even if they were handy, I would not have a piece of fabric so long that it would fit the whole hem after pleating. So I had to make it out of few parts. Here is a tip on how to attach the parts together: Pleat both pieces as described above, but DO NOT TOPSTITCH THE PLEATS ON THE ENDS. Press them and find an inner fold line on each. I drew a line with my red chalk to show where it is, but you don't have to do that- the pressed line will be there anyway. Very carefully ford two pleated parts right side together with the inner fold line matching. Pin and stitch down the fold line, backstitching at the hem ( to hide those nasty thread ends).

Cut the excess allowance along the stitch, I used overlock to finish the edges, fold to the main part and topstitch. I like pushing the bit at the hem up a little, so you cannot see it from the right side, even though it looks a bit funny on the inside ( don't forget all this business in happening on the inner fold of the pleat- so it is very unlikely to show) Here is a view of the right side- the topstitched seam is inside the fold.

To keep the pleats in place for further work with your pleated piece, pin each pleat again and topstitch the top end across the entire piece ( below)

Step 4 - Do Whatever you like with it!

Whatever is on your mind to do with those pleats- it is entirely up to you! As mentioned- in my case it was meant to be an alternative hem to my dress. Normally, I would fold two pieces right side together, the hem allowances together and stitch, but due to the complicated houndtooth pattern i just pinned the pleated hem just under the old hem of the dress and topstitched very close to the edge.

And here is my dress. This is actually it's second time being re-fashioned, but this time it is a keeper!

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"I think I'm turning Japanese" dress

This is the quickest dress I have ever made- but probably the funkiest. It is based on Japanese twisted cut approach and I used the pattern, published by my seamstress colleague on Burdastyle.com.

The fabric is a simple cotton jersey with a lovely floral and asian writing print ( suits the occasion actually) . it is a great project for  an hour long sew along ( please join in)





Here is how it's done:

First you need to download the pattern, kindly provided by Julia (apfelbluete) from Burdastyle.com




Step 1: Fold your fabric lengthwise ( along the grain) and place the pattern on the fold line

Step 2: Cut the fabric along the pattern line ( the seam allowances of 1cm are included, the bottom hem is 4cm), sew the side seams and the shoulder seams. Remember the stretch fabrics must be either serged or sewn with a narrow zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to stay stretchy. You must use special ballpoint machine needles for jersey.

Step 3: If you wish to add a narrow sleeve on the wide side for the symmetry like I did, measure the sleeve armhole (while still folded like above) Draw the sleeve on a piece of fabric, folded along the grain line, wide part corresponding with the armhole measurement you took, the lower edge copied from the other sleeve. The length of the sleeve must be measured separately. Just try the dress on and decide how long the sleeve should be. Mine was 32 cm long. Draw a line between the two outer edges of the sleeve along the length, gradully making it narrower as you go lower.

Step 4: Sew the side seams of the sleeve. Then attach it to the armhole, right side together with a sleeve placed inside the armhole:

Here is your sleeve done:

Step 5: Now I added a little standing collar. If you want to follow me- measure the neckline circumstance and cut a piece of fabric double the height of desired collar and add 1cm allowances to the measurement you took

Stitch the side seam of the collar and fold it lengthwise - raw edges together, right side out.

Place the collar inside your neckline- all open edges together. Align the seam on the collar with the shoulder seam or the centre back ( you'll have to determine where it is yourself). Stitch it all together along the neckline. Press. This is how it looks now on the inside:

Step 6: All what's left are the hems- fold the bottom 4cm on to the wrong side and stitch either with a special kersey double needle or a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. Stretch the fabric as you sew a bit for flexibility. The same on the sleeves, but only fold about 2 cm hem . Trim the excess of the hem over the stitch on the wrong side to eliminate the bulk close to the stitch- I usually leave about 4mm.


And here it is - a Japanese twister dress in less than an hour:

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Fabric Covered Shoes: Make Your Own

I just have to share this amazing tutorial with you today. How many times do we realize none of our shoes goes perfectly with the new outfit, and we end up choosing the next best thing, often ending up in a mismatched number.  Well I did. And as most of my wardrobe is and increasingly becomes self-made, this issue raises every time, bringing me to despair sometime ( as I can't afford just going and getting new shoes every time).

So this is the tutorial of the year!  It was posted by Alison Dahl from Brooklyn, NY creative director/ editor on Burda Style website.  All you need is a pair of shoes, 1 yard of fabric, 1 yard of self-adhesive fabric, craft glue (make sure it’s made for fabric), scissors & a pencil... and a bit of patience. So go ahead- give it a try, I know I will!!!

Click here for detailed instructions

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