Friday, October 5, 2012

Monday, October 1, 2012

Autumn 2012 wardrobe essentials (sewing Burda)


October is here and the fact that the Autumn is here is as solid as it gets. There is no illusions, they were all taken away by this pandemic flu all of us suffering from over here in the South of Ireland. So it is time to look over the wardrobe and make sure it has all the autumn essentials.  

So, voila, here is my guide to a handful of must have items for this autumn and some Burda patterns suggestions too.

1. Turtleneck ( in white or black)




2. Fitted Jacket
Burda 9/2012

3. Little Black Dress
Burda 9/2012

4. Pencil Skirt

Burda 01/2011
5. White Shirt
Burda 05/2012

6. Coat
Burda 9/2012


The other non-sew items must include:
  • a cosy cashemere pullover 

  • Knitted Cardigan (give it a go yourself)



  • High heel leather boots



©2012 copyright Sewing And Style.
All rights reserved.
All images and copied text must have a link back or reference to Sewing and Style Den

Monday, September 3, 2012

Thursday, August 23, 2012

Burda Easy Fashion 2012 A/W issue






They don't sell it here in Ireland, but I am determined to get my hands on this issue, somehow! It is not out for another month, so I am going to have to wait.





Here's why I love it:









Can you buy Burda Easy Fashion in your country?

©2012 copyright Sewing And Style.
All rights reserved.
All images and copied text must have a link back or reference to Sewing and Style Den

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

September Burda Style Inspirations

Just back from the bookstore with the new, Setember, Burda magazine and I am looking at "All Styles at a Glance page". A couple of items caught my eye instantly and I am very tempted to start tracing the patterns straight away too- very exciting!!!!

Of course, this year has been an interesting one, changing my whole attitude towards commercial and all other patterns, for that matter. I have dipped my toes into drafting my own patterns too, fitting techniques and approaches i have never explored before. As one stage I was convinced my Burda Style addiction is the thing of the past (well, the addiction part might actually be over, but I still use it and will in the foreseeable future). I then realized that the amount of fitting self-drafted pattern for a satisfactory result might even be even more time-consuming than in case of using a commercial pattern, and therefore neither is a perfect solution. In fact, I found the key to the best fit is this:


and I fully intend to be using this magic tool in my dressmaking adventures to it's full potential.

Back to September issue. There are three models I have preliminary chosen for my A/W wardrobe sewing. The first (left to right), jacket 132 is quite a challenge, but it is exactly the type of jacket I have been thinking of to wear with my recent Breaking The Spell peplum top . Cropped front to show of the peplum is perfect, yet the back is long enough to flatten the peplums bonnet. And, of course, it will look good style as it is suggested by the editors too- skinny jeans, basic pullover and heels. 

Speaking of pullovers, let's move on to the pick number two-  very basic cowl neck top. Very flattering draping on one side and the bottom of the sleeves, dead easy to make- a couple of hours job, really. 

The third pick, on the right, is another pullover. I call it an Audrey top (even though there are obvious design deviations from the famous grey Holly's pullover in "Breakfast at Tiffany's", I just can't help but thinking of her when I look at this model).  It will need a very soft and voluminous type of fabric, something like suggested wool velour or a really thick fleece. Warm and cosy is the key. and also it has a lovely v-neck at the back, which is not obvious on photos of any of the versions. (Again,  a message to the photographers and editors of Burda, what a disappointment- if you create a model with an interesting detail, why not emphasize it in your photo showcase? Makes no sense!)


And now, let's move on to my favoutite photo of the issue, a beautifully structured little black dress, worn with a micro bolero jacket. Very futuristic! Is it for me? The style is definitely my cup of tea- I love everything sharp and clean, but the bodycon shape wouldn't be the best for me, so this one will stay with me purelly in my dreams. Sigh!

©2012 copyright Sewing And Style.
All rights reserved.
All images and copied text must have a link back or reference to Sewing and Style Den

Monday, August 20, 2012

The making of a peplum top: pattern review

Pattern: Peplum top Burda 8/2012 113-114

Size: 34

Alterations: omitted the sleeves, finished armholes with bias stripes; added satin binding to the neckline instead of finishing with facing. Pattern correction - fitting the shoulder line.

Fabric: sheer crepe (I think) it is not too slippery, does not fray too much either and was easy to work with. I had about 1.2m 115cm wide originally, and there is still some (about a fat quarter) fabric left to be used as a nice detail somewhere.

Time to complete: about 4-5 hours from tracing the pattern to a finished garment

Sewing Process and Challenges: I found this pattern to be very easy to sew, the instructions were quite good and I had absolutely no issues during the process.

I liked the fact that inserting the invisible zip was suggested before sewing up the shoulder and side seams, it makes perfect sense and so much handier to do.

As my fabric was very light, I interfaced the centre back seams before sewing with a stay tape:


As the fabric doesn't really fray too much, I trimmed it to the edge of the interfacing tape:


 Then I sew the invisible zipper following a tutorial- Invisible zipper insertion from pattern~scissors~cloth


 The result is a very neat invisible zipper- and so easy. Is it even there?


after machine basting the shoulders and the sides, the first fitting was quite satisfactory, the only adjustment was lowering the shoulder line at the armholes. As I decided not to sew sleeves for this version, all I had to do is to pin the excess and sew a new seam accordingly:


Hemming this top was a dream- unlike chiffons and silks, this fabric was very easy to press and it was not slippery at all to sew. So I presses the hem allowance to the inside and ran a row of straight stitches a few millimeters from the edge.


Then I simply cut the allowance excess close to the hem:


I wanted to add something different to the top and when the white satin bias tape caught my eye, I knew this was the answer! To prepare the bias tape, i always stretch it with a hot steamy iron. ( A handy tip is to pin the edge of the tape to the ironing board cover…


 and then pull the tape and stretch it to the maximum, running a steamy iron over it (see how much more narrow it becomes? I also press a curve into it, to help hold the curvy shape:


 I loved the contract between the main fabric and the white satin:


I then stay stitched the collar and armholes and then applied the bias tape to the neckline. At first, i wanted to decorate the armholes the same way too, but later i decided that less is definitely more in this case and simply used bias stripes of the main fabric to finish the sleeves.


The result is my new top: I love it paired with narrow trousers and very very very high heels!
 For larger images, please read my previous post: I'm Back On Track 






©2012 copyright Sewing And Style.
All rights reserved.
All images and copied text must have a link back or reference to Sewing and Style Den

Disqus for Sewing and Style Den