Diana Moden- not just another sewing magazine

I have just received my sample copy of Diana Moden- a Russian sewing magazine, that regularly features Simplicity patterns.  My 6067 dress was featured in this year's February issue, however I had to buy an original pattern as I didn't have a paper copy of this magazine. 

I have to be honest, in spite of a huge debate on if it is right or wrong to use copyright piracy content, I personally do not hesitate in obtaining a digitalized copy of a sewing magazine with all pattern sheets if there is no way for me to get it otherwise. Diana Moden's issues can be often found scanned into a pdf's by an altruistic criminal, probably somewhere in  Eastern Europe region (God bless them) and kindly made available to download through numerous file sharing sites. 

Why do I use those files? Well, nobody is trying to make living sharing those patterns, so I gratefully accept and download. I have obtained an impressive collection of such names as Patrones, La Mia Boutique and Burda Style (those older issues that I do not have- I do prefer a paper copy any day and will honestly pay whatever the price for it). I have a few older la Mia Boutique issues, though it is much easier to buy them online these days. I have a couple of issues of Manequim and a big collection of knitting magazines too. I do not upload them or sell them, I just keep them on my laptop, hoping to use something sometimes. 

Now the challenge is in printing out those scanned copies. You really need to know the exact dimentions of the control square on the pattern sheet to get the right scaling. And there is where I have been failing. My printer just doesn't obey my instructions and keeps messing it all up. So I cannot really use them. 

Diana Moden is only sold in Russia, even though they have a website with a legal digital copy available for download, the access to it is exclusive to Russian Federation ( as you have to send a SMS to a Russian  number to get access code). They do accept an international bank transfer, but it is just too much hassle over a few euro worth magazine). The main attraction of this magazine is the fact that they feature original Simplicity patterns (4-5 patterns per issue) and this makes Diana Moden top value sewing magazine for anybody, even if you don't speak the lanquage. 

To my absolute delight, recently I found out that a company in Germany that arranges subscriptions to magazines published in Russian (I had a Burda subscription with them before it became available in my local bookstore) allows Diana Moden subscription as well. 

3 month subscription cost me 17 euro including shipping to Ireland (76 euro for a year). Even if just 1 of the 3 issues featured Simplicity patterns, that are sold for average 10 euro each, I see the benefits of subscribing already! What made my day even more- they offer a subscription to another popular Russian Sewing Magazine ШИК (Шитьё и Крой), which is now featuring either la Mia Boutique or Patrones patterns in every issue. 15 euro for three month is great, considering you cannot subscribe that easily to either of those magazines from Ireland. And you get all patterns fully, only a few month later.  So I am looking forward to the end of April, but when both of the magazine should have arrived. Bliss! 

Read More

Not so simple Simplicity

Well I am back with my finished project- Simplicity's New Look 6067 dress. It was probably the longest project so far I have ever done. I started it just before St Patrick's weekend and just simply had no time to sit down and finish it, so I eneded up sewing it bit by bit, and, boy, am I happy to finish it finally!!!! I am not a fan of long term projects. My inspiration fizzles out fast enough and normally, I love getting everything done in a day or two. Which could easily be done in this case too, given enough time.

Back to the pattern. My measurements fell almost perfectly on their size 10 on top and just beyond 12 on the bottom, but i kept it close to 10 anyway as the skirt is quite loose fitting. Generally this pattern is quite good- I found it fit very well and didn't need to many adjustments. The only thing I changed was the shoulder width as my back is quite narrow- I took around 2.5 inches ( 5 cm) off the shoulder width.

I had a cut of thick double knit grey jersey lying around that I used for this "pattern trial" project. The first challenge I met was the thickness of the fabric- it really created an enormous bulk at the front pleats, especially when I connected the bodice and the skirt. The instructions suggested pressing the seam allowance towards the bodice, but maybe spreading the bulk evenly to both sides would work better. The solution came to me a couple of days later- but it really worked to hide all the bulk- a little cute bow)))

I would also have liked to use interfaced lining as a facing fabric for the opening at the neckline  if I had a change to turn time back )))) The instructions that came with the pattern were quite good par from one very important part- the lining of the sleeves. it suggested lining the sleeves and then attaching to the bodice as one part…. very strange considering this sleeve is very short and every time you raised your arm, you could see the ugly seam allowance should you follow their advice. Well i do consider using 6067 pattern more in the future and I will definitely line the dress, just not the way the instructions suggest.
I will also consider balancing all my darts and trimming one side of seam allowance at waist to minimum, to have a nice clean professional result.

For now though, a skinny belt helps hide the seam and overall it is not bad for a first go.

The conclusion is- Simplicity New Look Misses' dresses 6067 is a fab pattern, i am delighted to have it in my collection and I am looking forward to trying it out again soon!!!!

Read More

Reflecting, reflecting!

To all my friends, who take their time following my blog- I am so sorry for doing ABSOLUTELY NOTHING in the last month, just couldn't get inspired. I re-aranged my sewing workshop, resulting in a pretty room and no action. All ideas I had just before somehow didn't feel right ( oh yes, I am talking about the 5/2011 dress)

After trying one with a fitted top and a full skirt in one of the shops I finally had to give up the idea. I am a small pear shaped woman, who's legs are shorter than I'd wish for, plus they are much heavier on the thighs not to worry about what you are wearing. As the problem only came to me in my thirties, it took an additional 5 years to admit, that I should stay away from the body hugging skirts and dresses. But a full skirt has it's cons as well- it just makes my bottom look massive.

In general, for a shape like mine the flare is necessary, but it must be controlled. Classy A-line, smart pleats, straight, but not tight shapes, plus building up at the shoulders. Liking the modeled version of a pattern is not enough- "dress for your shape" approach is paramount.

Yes, you must try things on and play with different ideas. One of them - boxy shaped garments, like my recent Burda 2/2012 dress, was a bitter experience. All this effort to hate the way it wears -all my remarks about the neckline being too wide and the front side parts giving a very unflattering shape to the bust, plus absolutely silly shape overall. I know there were a good few comments approving the dress on the photo, but in reality it just didn't work at all. So it is in a re-make pile, gladly the front and back pieces are quite large, and I have lots more of this fabric- so something better will be done with it eventually. But no more baggy styles for me.

Now I am dying to get back in action and there are a few ideas where to start. ( Now whether they will come to life is hard to foresee, considering that brainstorming is what I have been doing most recently without any actual making LOL)

I have found this lovely Simplicity 6067 dress. Nice loose skirt to hide the thighs and beautiful darts at the front to show off the waist and bust. Gorgeous. 

One small problem though- my last experience with simplicity patterns was a fiasco! Or I should add that Simplicity regularly publish their pattern in a Russian sewing magazine called "Diana Moden" and I had a downloadable version of that magazine. Scaling was a major issue- the printer's option not to scale still printed the pattern sheet out wrong. When I thought I finally scaled it to what it should be, I made a tunic, but it looked awful - nothing like the modeled version. The solutions for 6067 are

1.  to make a muslin OR 
2. Buy the original pattern here
3. use a similar Burda magazine 11/2011 dress pattern  123 and play with it a little:

The Burda dress has a great skirt too, but the V cut is way too low- I like the Simplicity's version much more for practical reasons. For those who want to use New Look 6067- check out some PatternReview.com reviews:  also very helpful : Vacuuming The Lawn, and here is one from Beck and Lundy

As for me - I just bought the original printable pattern and will definitely start and , naturally, review it soon.

And here is another inspirational dress I found online:

It is so simple and elegant- love the sleeve panels on it and the wrap effect on the front of the bodice. There is a perfect pattern for it ( it will need alteration, but great to use as a base) : Burda Magazine 7/2011 - 110

(This pink version is made by Burdastyle.com member kokuryu )

Another dress I have in mind for the spring/summer season is a front twist dress from Burda 3/2012

Unfortunately, it is drafted for tall sizes. Fortunately, I just read a review  by the Selfish Seamstress and apparently it might be ok as is for a short girl like me)))) Yay! I will say no more- go and read her story. 

As for me, I just hope I will get to make it soon!

Some more inspirations for the future: Vogue 1154 Misses strapless dress:

More on a casual note: a pinafore dress 121 from Burda 9/2007. Made from a less stretchy fabric, it actually turns into a great cocktail dress.

Read More

Trials and Tribulations

A lot has been said about the pop culture that we are all influenced by, and we do fall victims to this influence no matter if we admit we do or not. Me blogging and you reading this is just a small example. What I am upset about today is how the images blur our vision of reality. You show me a cute model in a rag and I am drooling over making this rag, go through all the troubles to find a pattern, waste my fabric and interfacing, and, more importantly, my time- only to come to the same old feeling of  disappointment.

I was really obsessed with this pattern from Simplicity, very sixties. I particularly loved the little red number. I went through a hassle of finding a download of this pattern, a nightmare of dealing with scaling issue while printing it out, and then an idea came to me...... Why don't I try it out on a cheaper fabric before embarking on something more costly.

Words can't describe how grateful I am to the moment this thought came to my head!!!!! I never really do it- I do not make muslins and always go straight for the chosen fabric- often it is a wrong thing to do, especially with more challenging patterns. However, this one was very very easy- so trying it out seemed unnecessary. But I did!

Well..... I realised, I am not really into single cut collars anymore..... Unless your neck is quite long, it will just make you look like you haven't got  a neck at all. I used to go for a high neck garments before as i had a hickey-looking birthmark on the base of my neck, but since i got a cute little tattoo over it- the issue is gone and these kind of compromises are needed no more. ( my fab tat showing a little here)

You could argue that my fabric is too soft for such style, but the bottom line is that I want to look good and not disproportionate in my clothes.  The version with a short sleeve corrects it, but only ever so slightly- it is still a no-no in my opinion. After I tried it on- I just knew this is as far as our romance goes and no more time will be spend on the other details  the pattern offered.

So this is one for the house. This fabric is quite nasty- it looks very good for the first couple of days , but then it starts developing this little furry balls all over and looks a 100 years old and very shabby.  Too bad. I have made a pajama trousers from it before and this might just be a top to match on a cold winter night.

One good point though. I got to try out the blind hem foot on my overlock- what an invention! You have to spend half an hour playing with settings and tensions,but at the end the result is quite good. I actually intentionally set it up that it catches a bit of fabric, so the threads are visible on the outside, but it adds a nice effect to the hem- I am definitely going to use it again on all my items.

Read More

The Simplicity of Simplicity ??? Confessions of a Burdaholic

I have to confess- I am addicted to Burda Style magazine patterns. So much so that I will think fifty times before starting on any other brand of patterns, most likely trying to find a similar garment in my Burda magazines collection. It is all about the familiarity, this warm and cozy feeling of knowing how-to's and staying in your comfort zone.

Good or bad? Not great- as I believe that  my opportunities and creativity is somewhat limited and it is a shame not to explore the rest of the sewing pattern world.
If you are wondering why I am disclosing such a cowardly side of mine, I guess the answer is- I need to say it out loud. It is the first step to recovery from my addiction ( but I can't promise it will not relapse).

Here is my detailed confession.

I am used to patterns with no seam allowances included, so having no exact lines to sew over freaks me out . I know- it is very simple and you get used to it and it is actually easier and quicker blah blah blah..... the thought of dealing with it scares the living hell out of me! Enough said!

The next hassle point- remeasuring the pattern and myself, and adjusting. Yes, I do adjustments anyway, always. But with Burda I know exactly where and how much, easy-peasy, no brain damage.

Then the instructions. I find Burda's instructions very comprehensive ( 95% of the time, there is always a dress 119 11/2011 ). Other brands can have pictures and stuff and still not really nail the actual construction technology. Or I am just being bias.

Ok..... I ran out of excuses. Here's the truth. I wanted a tunic for winter, something resembling Audrey Hepburn's grey pullover from "Breakfast at Tiffany's"

After a good search I found a great one, however a bit different from the inspiration. I absolutely loved it!  The pattern is made by Burda, but they don't ship it here. Nor they offer a download option. What a bummer. Then somebody pointed me to the light.

SIMPLICITY 2568 ( kindly provided by Diana Moden magazine, Russian edition 9/2010)


It has three models- two dresses, a tunic and also trousers. I found a download online, printed it and put in a painstaking effort to assemble it all together - makes it harder when it is a scanned in copy  it was not the official download). Aligning- mission  impossible.

I have never used this magazine or Simplicity patterns before, and here I am in a danger zone. When you find yourself unsure, research is the best weapon- so I turned to online forums. It took me a good hour of reading through the posts to come to a few conclusions about these patterns:

• The ease on the garments is generally very big- if you like tighter fit, you will need to keep this in mind.
• The allowances are included (1.5cm) unless stated otherwise on the piece. 
• The back/shoulder width tend to be quite large- adjust for narrow back
• When printing from a downloaded file make sure the control square on the pattern sheet corresponds to the exact measurements in the magazine/pattern.
• The measurements for the sizes is only a guideline. Every pattern gives a ready garment measurements chart- make sure you check it and adjust the pattern as needed. 

My challenge number one was the scaling of the pattern sheet image files. I do not really bother to be politically correct about it- if I cannot buy it and there is a scanned copy online- I will get it. My scanned magazines collection is enormous. Sometimes the files come as pdf's, sometimes jpegs, but the way your printer deals with the scaling it always different and it is important to resize images and set up printer correctly for each sheet. It can take ages! Also finding out what that control square measurements should be proved to be a disaster as apparently in that magazine they change their sizes quite often. Mine appeared 5x6.5cm when printed. I am still not sure if it is right.

The next was the  ease allowance. My bust measurement is 82cm and the finished garments 94cm- that is pretty loose, so I took it down to 86cm (4cm on both front and back). I took down another 1cm on the back piece for narrower shoulder width.

The paper pattern doesn't look too loose now, I would like to give it a go in a leftover fabric first to see how it will fit. There is a bit of fabric from my Japanese twisted dress (previous post) left, I might give it a go.

I will start with a top. As the jersey is quite stretchy, I won't be adding the zipper at the back and I might leave the longer sleeve for this one ( like on the checked dress). If the top sits well around the chest and the neck, I can use it for more garments. My husband wants one of them to be definitely a dress. So I am under pressure. I'll keep you posted.

Read More