Thursday, November 25, 2010

Perfect Curved Seams

I had my eyes on this skirt from Burda Magazine 9/2010. Beautifully structured, the curved seams make the silhouette just perfect and fantastically slim. Today I decided to share my tips on how to sew a curved seam without stretching the fabrics for a great result. 

I learned it from Sandra Betzina a while ago.


Always make sure you stabilize the inner curve!!!! Use the fusible stay tape (straight grain is perfect, but if you have a bias one it is ok too. The straight grain is better as will not stretch at all). Lay the stay tape over the seam line and fuse with a hot iron.

Lay out the two part and determine which curve is an outer and which is an inner one. On this picture the top side of the bottom part is an inner curve in the skirt design.

Carefully clip the fabric on the seam allowance towards the seam line, but not all the way, just about 3/4 of the way. Clip at every inch or a couple of cm. This will help manage the seam when connecting it with the outer curved seam on the other part, without stretching the fabric

Pin the seams of the inner and outer curve together, inner curve on top, slightly "opening" the clipped side to follow the outer curve seam. Pin quite frequently

Sew the parts - Inner curve on top, sew directly over the middle of the stay tape (with should be fused over the seam line anyway.)

Pressing the curved seam, carefully press the seams open first, try not to use much steam, then turn around and press on the right side for a perfect finish- remember to follow your fabric pressing guide and protective cloth if the fabric "shines" from pressing. I am making my skirt in black and this picture doesn't show how smooth the seam really is, but take my word- there is no stretching at all!!!!!

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