Have I mentioned how delighted I am with my Perfect Pants pattern? Oh yes, only but a hundred times already! LOL! However, talking is not good enough- I have put it to use once again and this time, getting ready to our (motor) biking trip in Mallorca, I now own a pair of denim shorts too.
Those who follow my blog from the start might remember me contemplating the whole idea of shorts on a pear shaped body, but these do look ok. But I am not planning on making and wearing more shorts - not the most flattering bottom garment of all. One pair will do.
A quick word about the pattern. Obviously, every fabric will behave somewhat differently in the same pattern. I realized that the previous pair of trousers were quite snug and made sure the fabric I was using for my biking shorts had a good bit of stretch in it.
It started with a drama though, as I simply forgot if I have added seam allowances to the paper pattern last time. And it was crucial with such a tight fit, so I truly panicked. However, after double checking with the Perfect Pants it seemed to have no allowance and I moved on, hoping this was not the sign of things to come.
Although I am extremely happy how the first pair came out, there still a few things that need to be adjusted on the pattern, and making these shorts really highlighted the need for it. I am talking about my seriously swayed back. There is a very prominent dip between the waist and the buttocks and all my trousers always stick out at the top back there.
This pattern features a wide yoke, which I had made out of 2 pieces at the back, rather than a whole, hoping to eliminate the gaping. But I don't think it solved the problem much, as the yoke looks a bit V-shaped at the center back seam and then the top edge of the trousers (or shorts in this case) looks wrong. I am wondering if cutting the back yoke as a whole piece on a bias could make a difference? Anyone?
Usually, I do a good bit of research beforehand, but this time, the issue came up in the middle of sewing, and (I admit) it was due to a simple case of laziness on my behalf, that I didn't re-draft the yoke pattern piece. I just added a narrow belt on the top, and it worked for this one. But I am definitely going back to my virtual drawing board to address the sway back issue before using the pattern next time. Would any of my readers have a good advice or a tutorial that might help? Please post it here in the comments, it will be so appreciated.
The look of the shorts turned out to be very retro- completely unintentionally, as normally I don't sew retro pieces. but I love it, it is very sixties- hence the style of the photos, the real colour is quite vivid blue, I also love my cute anchor button (close-up photo on top).
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Beautiful work! about the bias yoke idea- just don't forget that twill (especially denim!) will stretch differently toward the warp than the weft. I think your shorts, styling, and photos look great!
ReplyDeleteyou are right, but what if it was interfaced? I am just thinking of the solution for future
ReplyDeleteJuliette, I think you have done an incredible job on getting the fit right. I read back your post on all the muslins you made - such a lot of work - it looks perfect to me. I'll be very interested to see what changes you make to the back yoke.
ReplyDeleteI am definitely going to crack this sooner or later ))))
ReplyDeleteGORGEOUS. those fit like an everlovin glove!
ReplyDeleteThanks- they will still have to pass the big biking test ( I hope they won't fall apart in the middle of the journey hahaha!!!!)
ReplyDelete