Thursday, June 28, 2012

Zip it up (Fly Zipper Insertion)

Inserting a zipper into trousers is not at all as scary as it may seem. Here are step by step guide of the method I used in my Shorts?Shorts! project

Step 1 — Interface

Assuming you have your centre seam sewn together to the point of fly opening, Interface the edges of the centre front seam, it will stabilize the zipper and make the fly look very sleek.

Step 2 — Sewing left side

1. Check that the length of your zipper corresponds with the length of the opening. If the zipper is too long, crop it as needed and secure the end with a few stitches across the teeth, to keep them together.

2. Fold the left allowance under about 5mm before the centre front line. Pin and press. Baste the left side of the zipper under the fold, with the zipper teeth showing.

3. Prepare a left flap by cutting a strip about 5 cm wide and as long as the zipper. Fold it wrong sides in and sew/overlock the edges (long side and one short end)

4. Place the flap under the basted zipper side, folded side about 1.5cm beyond the zipper teech. Using the special zipper sewing foot, stitch through all layers.

Step 3 — Sewing right side- part 1

Fold the right side of the front opening back and press along the centre fold line. close the zipper, place the right side of the trousers over the zipper to determine where the zipper should be attatched to the right side allowance, mark the placing. Pin the right side of the zipper to the right side allownace, without catching the main fabric. Baste it, try the trousers on and make sure it all lays nicely and doesn't bulk anywhere. when happy, sew the right zipper side to the allowance.

Step 4 — Sewing right side- part 2

Prepare the right side flap. (I like to give it a rounded shape, just like the top stitching will be.) This flap will support all the layers you have under the main fabric and make the zipper side look more crisp too.

With the rounded bit at the bottom of the zipper, place the right flap OVER the right allowance, hiding all the layers inside the flap. Using the special zipper foot, sew through all layers of allowance close to zipper teeth.

Step 6 — Stitch the fly

You can use a fly template (taken from any other trousers) if you are not comfortable drawing it yourself. I draw it by hand, using a ruler and rounding it at the bottom. Using your usual presser foot, place a row of neat even stitching over the line, making sure it doesn't catch the left flap underneath ( it must be attatched only at the bottom.) Make sure you backstitch at the centre seam at the bottom to strengthen the fly.

Step 7 — Finish the bottom edge

Sew the short edges of the flaps,allowaces together at an angle, just to secure them in place.

Step 8 — Conclusion

There are so many ways to insert a fly zipper, and mine is just one of them. I am happy enough with the look of my fly, it doesn't bulk, and the zipper is hidden nicely, yet it looks very neat when open too. Hope you find my method helpful, but do feel free to improve or alter it as you sew. Best of Luck!

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  1. Thank you Juliette. This is a great tutorial! I´ll put it to good use when the time comes.

  2. you're welcome, Merche


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